What Makes 1095 Steel Ideal (or Not) for CNC Projects

Want.Net Technical Team
May 29, 2025

Introduction

Choosing the right material for CNC machining can make or break your project. It’s not just about whether a material is hard or tough. It’s about how it behaves under pressure, how it interacts with tools, and how it holds up over time. That’s where 1095 steel comes into play.

I first came across 1095 steel when I was working on a custom knife project. At the time, I didn’t know much about it—just that it was a high-carbon steel often used in blades. But after working with it in a CNC environment, I realized it had a lot more to offer—and a few frustrating limitations, too.

This article dives deep into 1095 steel—what it is, how it performs under CNC, when it’s a great choice, and when it’s not worth the hassle. If you’re a machinist, hobbyist, engineer, or custom fabricator looking into 1095 steel for your next CNC job, this guide is built for you.

I’ve broken it down in a practical way: facts, real-world examples, and some first-hand experience to help you make smarter decisions. Let’s cut through the noise and see if 1095 steel really fits your CNC project—or if another material might serve you better.

What Is 1095 Steel? A Brief Material Profile

If you’ve ever worked with high-carbon steel, chances are you’ve heard of 1095 steel. It’s been around for a long time, and it’s earned its reputation for a reason. I first used it in a small fabrication shop where we were making bushcraft knives for a local outdoors brand. Back then, I didn’t think much about the composition of the steel—just whether it sparked well on a grinder. But once we started machining it on CNC equipment, I had to understand exactly what it was made of and how it behaved under the cutter.

What is 1095 Steel Made Of?

1095 steel is a plain high-carbon steel—simple, strong, and straight to the point. The name itself tells you what’s in it:

Element	Typical Content (%)	Purpose
Carbon (C)	~0.95	Hardness, edge retention, wear resistance
Manganese (Mn)	~0.40	Improves toughness, deoxidizer
Phosphorus (P)	≤0.03	Impurity, can cause brittleness
Sulfur (S)	≤0.05	Impurity, slightly improves machinability
Iron (Fe)	Balance	Base metal

There are no fancy alloying elements like chromium, vanadium, or molybdenum in 1095 steel. That’s both its strength and its weakness.

Why It’s Popular in Tool and Knife Making

1095 steel has been used for decades in knife blades, springs, saws, and hand tools. Why? Because it hits hard—literally. With a high carbon content, 1095 can reach up to HRC 60–64 hardness after heat treatment. That makes it excellent for edge retention and wear resistance.

But it’s not stainless. Without chromium, 1095 steel rusts easily if not cared for. That’s why most knife makers oil it regularly or apply coatings like bluing or Cerakote.

In CNC applications, its high hardness is both a blessing and a curse. In its annealed form, it’s relatively easy to machine. But once it’s hardened, it’s brutal on cutters—especially if you’re not using carbide tools.

1095 Steel Mechanical Properties (Annealed)

Here’s a quick look at its base mechanical profile before heat treatment:

Property	Value
Hardness (BHN)	~201
Tensile Strength	~750 MPa
Yield Strength	~525 MPa
Elongation	~10–12%
Machinability Index	~45% (compared to B1112 steel)
Modulus of Elasticity	~200 GPa

As you can see, it’s not the most machinable steel out there. But in the annealed state, it’s manageable for small and mid-size CNC jobs—especially if you know what you’re doing with speeds, feeds, and tool selection.

What Makes 1095 Different from Stainless Steels?

A lot of people new to CNC machining ask me, “Is 1095 like stainless steel?” The answer is no—far from it.

Feature	1095 Steel	Stainless Steel (e.g., 440C)
Carbon Content	High (~0.95%)	Medium to High (~0.6–1.2%)
Chromium Content	Low (~0.2%)	High (>13%)
Rust Resistance	Poor	Excellent
Hardness Potential	High	High
Ease of Machining	Medium	Medium (varies by alloy)
Cost	Low	Higher

If corrosion resistance is a concern, 1095 is not your friend. But if you’re chasing raw edge performance or a specific aesthetic in your product, 1095 holds its ground. I’ve personally seen blades made from it outperform stainless ones in edge retention—when properly heat treated.

Final Thoughts on 1095 Steel’s Composition

1095 steel is like the classic muscle car of metals—simple, powerful, and built for speed, not comfort. You won’t get the fancy refinements of modern powder steels, but you’ll get raw performance. For CNC projects, knowing what you’re working with is half the battle. And with 1095, once you understand its properties, you can get a lot out of it—if you treat it right.

Is 1095 Steel Ideal for CNC? Quick Verdict

Let me start with the honest answer I wish someone had given me early on: 1095 steel can be CNC machined, but it’s not ideal in all situations. Whether it works well or not depends heavily on the condition of the steel, your tooling setup, and what you’re trying to build.

I learned this the hard way when I tried to machine a hardened 1095 blank without checking if it had been heat treated. I destroyed two end mills and burned through an afternoon before I realized what I was up against. Since then, I always ask: Is this material in its annealed state? That single question determines everything.

When 1095 Steel Makes Sense for CNC

If your 1095 steel is annealed—meaning it hasn’t yet gone through heat treatment—then CNC machining is absolutely feasible. In fact, it’s a common way to shape knife blanks, small spring components, or experimental parts before hardening.

Here’s a list of situations where 1095 steel is an excellent fit for CNC:

Prototyping knife blanks before hardening
Machining custom spring plates or flexible clips
Low-volume custom metal parts that require high edge hardness post-treatment
Artisanal or boutique product work where uniqueness trumps mass production

In these cases, using 1095 steel in CNC gives you high performance after heat treatment, at a relatively low material cost.

When 1095 Steel Becomes a CNC Headache

On the flip side, once 1095 steel is hardened, it becomes extremely difficult to machine. It can reach a Rockwell hardness of over 60, which is very aggressive on tools. Even with carbide cutters, you’ll get limited life unless you’re going slow, using ample coolant, and planning tool paths carefully.

It also doesn’t forgive mistakes. If you’re a beginner, or if your CNC setup isn’t rigid and powerful enough, you’ll run into chatter, deflection, or even broken tools.

Here’s a checklist of projects where 1095 steel probably isn’t worth the CNC effort:

High-volume parts that need repeatable, fast cycles
Precision components with tight tolerances (unless you’re post-machining soft steel and finishing after hardening)
Corrosion-resistant parts (1095 rusts fast without coatings)
Complex geometries requiring deep cuts or multi-axis moves in hardened steel

In these cases, you’re better off using stainless tool steels like A2 or D2, or even modern options like CPM 154 or MagnaCut, depending on your budget and goals.

Real-World Verdict: Pros & Cons by Condition

Here’s a quick summary table to help you decide:

Use Case Scenario	1095 Steel (Annealed)	1095 Steel (Hardened)
Knife Blank Prototyping	✅ Easy to machine	❌ Too hard without EDM or grinding
Artistic Part Fabrication	✅ Affordable, shapeable	❌ Brittle, tool-wearing
High-Precision Engineering	⚠️ Limited accuracy	❌ Not suitable
Small-Batch Custom Jobs	✅ Works well	⚠️ Only post-machining allowed
Mass Production	❌ Inefficient	❌ Tool-cost prohibitive
Outdoor or Rust-Prone Usage	❌ Needs coating	❌ Not stainless

What I Recommend (from Experience)

If you’re just starting out or you don’t have experience machining high-carbon steels, I suggest working only with annealed 1095 steel, and doing post-process heat treatment. It’s far less risky and gives you a lot more control over the process.

And if your project depends on corrosion resistance or ultra-precise cuts post-hardening, skip 1095 steel altogether. The headaches aren’t worth it.

Pros and Cons of Using 1095 Steel in CNC Projects

Working with 1095 steel on a CNC machine is a bit like owning a classic car—it performs beautifully in the right conditions but demands respect and attention to detail. Over the years, I’ve had great successes and frustrating failures with this steel. Understanding both the strengths and limitations has been the key to using it effectively.

Let’s break down the real-world pros and cons of 1095 steel in CNC machining, with emphasis on its performance characteristics, cost, material behavior, and long-term usability.

Benefits of Using 1095 Steel for CNC

High Hardness Potential

Once heat treated, 1095 steel can reach Rockwell hardness levels of 60–64 HRC. That’s incredibly hard—perfect for blades, wear surfaces, or parts needing long edge retention. I’ve made a few prototype utility blades with 1095, and after hardening, they held their edge through repeated abuse on everything from rubber gaskets to cardboard and wood.

Low Material Cost

Compared to modern stainless or powder steels, 1095 steel is very inexpensive. That makes it ideal for low-budget custom projects or educational builds. I’ve bought sheets of annealed 1095 at $5–$8 per pound, which is a fraction of what CPM steels cost.

Readily Available

You can find 1095 steel just about anywhere—online, from metal suppliers, and even through knife-making distributors. It’s stocked in bar, sheet, and coil form, often already annealed for easier machining.

Simple Heat Treatment

You don’t need an industrial furnace or cryogenic chamber to harden 1095. A propane torch or forge, some oil for quenching, and an oven for tempering will do the trick. That accessibility is a big plus if you’re doing prototyping or working in a small shop.

CNC-Compatible in Annealed State

In the annealed condition, 1095 machines well enough on most mid-range CNC setups. I’ve run it on both a Tormach 1100 and a Haas TM-1P with decent results, as long as I respected its tendency to work-harden if I lingered too long in one spot.

Downsides of 1095 Steel in CNC Machining

Not Stainless—Rusts Quickly

This is the biggest issue. Without any chromium in its composition, 1095 rusts fast. If you don’t oil it, coat it, or store it properly, surface corrosion shows up in a day or two—especially in humid environments.

Tool Wear Can Be Significant (If Hardened)

If you attempt to CNC-machine hardened 1095, you’ll go through tools fast. It’s not as tough on cutters as CPM 3V or S110V, but it’s still aggressive. Carbide is a must, and even then, expect frequent tool changes if you’re cutting anything beyond surface details.

Dimensional Instability After Heat Treat

I’ve seen flat blanks warp after heat treatment—especially if there’s uneven material thickness. If your part requires tight tolerances, you’ll either need to post-machine with surface grinding or account for distortion during the design phase.

Poor Machinability Score

Compared to free-machining steels like 12L14 or even low-alloy steels like 4140, 1095 scores poorly on the machinability index—around 45% of AISI 1112 steel.

Not Great for Complex Geometries

Deep pockets, sharp internal corners, and intricate features don’t play well with 1095 unless you use EDM, waterjet, or go extremely slow. For most users, especially on hobby-grade CNC machines, this can be a serious limitation.

Summary Table: 1095 Steel in CNC Applications

Feature or Factor	Performance with 1095 Steel	Notes
Cost	✅ Low	Affordable for prototyping or budget builds
Availability	✅ Widely available	Sheets, bars, and coils in annealed form
Hardness (post heat treat)	✅ Excellent (60–64 HRC)	Great for blades, wear parts
Rust Resistance	❌ Very poor	Needs protective coating or oil
CNC Machinability (annealed)	⚠️ Moderate	Needs sharp tools, good fixturing
CNC Machinability (hardened)	❌ Poor	Requires carbide tools and slow feeds
Post-heat-treat distortion	⚠️ Moderate risk	Stress relief or grinding may be needed
Ideal for Complex Shapes	❌ Not recommended	Waterjet or laser cutting preferred

My Personal Take

I like 1095 steel. It’s raw, affordable, and honest. When I want to prototype a knife, a spring clip, or a rugged part that’ll be heat-treated later, 1095 gives me the results I want—without breaking the bank. But I’ve also learned not to push it beyond its limits. CNC machining hardened 1095 is a battle, and unless I absolutely need its properties, I’ll often switch to something more forgiving.

When CNC + 1095 Works Well: Real-World Scenarios

After spending years working on small-batch CNC projects and collaborating with knife makers, tool designers, and even blacksmiths, I’ve seen exactly where 1095 steel fits in—and where it doesn’t. Below are specific, real-world scenarios where CNC machining 1095 steel works well, especially when paired with the right tooling, machine rigidity, and heat treatment workflow.

Knife Making and Bladesmithing

This is by far the most common and successful use case for 1095 steel. In the world of custom knives, CNC-machined knife blanks made from 1095 are everywhere. They offer high hardness after heat treatment, excellent edge retention, and a classic high-carbon look.

Why CNC Works Here:

CNC provides precise blade geometry before hardening.
Post-processing is easy with grinders and polishers.
The annealed state is easy to cut on basic CNC routers or mills.

What I’ve Done:

I’ve personally machined several full-tang outdoor knife blanks from 3/16″ 1095 steel on a mid-range CNC mill. With the right speeds and feeds, I had no problem roughing and profiling the shape. After heat treatment, all I had to do was sharpen and apply a patina.

Custom Spring Clips and Tension Parts

1095’s natural springiness after heat treatment makes it great for custom tension parts like belt clips, tool retainers, and even small clamps. These are usually small batch runs or one-off custom parts.

Why CNC Works Here:

Material is cheap for testing spring tension variations.
The geometry is often flat and easy to fixture.
Once cut, clips only need basic bending or forming after heat treatment.

Use Case Example:

A friend of mine who designs EDC gear uses CNC to cut 1095 spring clips that are later torch-hardened. He swears by the “snap” and memory the steel provides when compared to 420 or 17-4PH stainless.

Prototyping Small Wear Parts

Because 1095 has great wear resistance once hardened, it’s not a bad option for small functional parts that deal with sliding, impact, or abrasion—especially in testing environments.

When It’s Effective:

You need a hard part, but you’re not ready to invest in exotic steels.
The piece is flat or low-profile (like a contact plate or rail).
You want to harden only the outer surface.

Educational Projects and Maker Workshops

In technical schools, knife-making classes, or hobbyist spaces, 1095 steel is used to teach the fundamentals of CNC cutting, heat treating, and metal finishing. I’ve led two workshops at a local makerspace where we pre-machined 1095 knife blanks, then taught heat treating and sharpening afterward.

Why It’s Great for Learning:

Easy to machine soft, hardens dramatically for student comparison.
Forgiving in design—most blades or tools are 2D profiles.
Teaches corrosion care, post-processing, and material behavior.

Table: CNC-Appropriate Use Cases for 1095 Steel

Application Scenario	CNC Feasibility	Notes
Outdoor fixed-blade knife blank	✅ Excellent	Pre-machining before heat treatment
Custom EDC clip or tension tab	✅ Very good	Flat parts, easy to fixture
Prototype spring plate	✅ Good	Works well with post-bending
Hard contact wear pad	⚠️ Limited	Post-heat-treatment machining not ideal
Tactical tool frame	✅ Effective	Machinable + durable after finishing
Engraved blade or showpiece	✅ Effective	Shallow cuts before hardening work well
Mass-produced mechanical part	❌ Inefficient	Tool wear and post-processing not cost-effective

CNC Machine Considerations

These scenarios assume you’re using a rigid, mid-to-high-end CNC mill or router. I wouldn’t recommend 1095 steel for desktop CNCs unless you’re doing very light cuts or engraving. For reference, here are the setups that worked well for me:

CNC Machine	Suitable for 1095?	My Experience
Tormach 1100MX	✅ Yes	Perfect for prototyping knives
Haas TM-1P	✅ Yes	Reliable and strong enough for 1/4″ cuts
Shapeoko Pro XXL	⚠️ Limited	OK for engraving or profiling in thin stock
Pocket NC	❌ No	Spindle too weak for steel
Manual Bridgeport	✅ Yes	Needs careful feeds but totally doable

Final Thoughts

If you’re designing parts that benefit from hardness, spring tension, or wear resistance, and you can handle the heat treatment step, CNC machining 1095 steel makes a lot of sense. It’s not the best choice for corrosion resistance, ultra-tight tolerances, or post-hardened precision machining—but in these specific hands-on cases, it really shines.

When to Avoid CNC Machining 1095 Steel

As much as I appreciate what 1095 steel can do, I’ve also seen where it falls apart—literally and figuratively—in CNC applications. Not every job is a good fit for this material, and pushing it into the wrong role leads to broken tools, wasted stock, and unnecessary frustration. If you’re considering 1095 steel for a CNC project, here are the situations where I’d strongly advise against it based on personal experience and industry norms.

Precision Components with Tight Tolerances

If your part requires tight tolerances—especially after heat treatment—1095 steel becomes a gamble. It’s prone to warping during quenching, and even tempering doesn’t fully eliminate internal stress. I once machined a pair of mating spring plates and got them perfectly matched in the annealed state, but after heat treat, one warped just enough to make the assembly unusable.

Why It’s Not Ideal:

Post-heat-treatment warping is unpredictable.
Achieving <0.002″ tolerance after hardening is extremely difficult without grinding.
The steel’s hardness post-treatment makes finishing passes risky and slow.

Hardened-State Machining

There’s no nice way to say it: CNC machining hardened 1095 steel is brutal. Unless you’re equipped with diamond or high-end carbide tooling, it’ll eat through your end mills like candy. Even if you get a clean cut, you’ll be doing it at reduced speeds and facing serious heat buildup.

Risk Factor	Description
Tool wear	Carbide tools degrade rapidly
Overheating	Lack of coolant leads to poor finish
Chatter	Hardened 1095 is unforgiving to vibration
Fixturing	Hard parts are harder to hold securely

In one case, I tried contouring a hardened blade blank as a test—it took 4x longer than the same operation in 4140 steel and ruined a brand-new 3-flute cutter in the process.

Corrosion-Prone Environments

If your CNC part is going to live in wet, humid, or corrosive settings, 1095 steel is a poor choice unless you’re applying a heavy-duty coating. Without chromium, it starts rusting as soon as it’s exposed to air and moisture. This makes it a risky material for marine hardware, food tools, or outdoor fixtures unless post-processing includes powder coating, oiling, or paint.

High-Volume Production Work

For mass production, 1095 steel rarely makes economic sense. Its need for careful heat treatment, tool wear costs, and inconsistent post-treatment results make it less appealing compared to stainless or alloy steels designed for production tolerances and CNC efficiencies.

Challenge	Impact on Production
Tool maintenance	More frequent changes, higher cost
Setup repeatability	Warping during treatment varies by batch
Time per part	Longer machining time
Risk of scrap	Heat treatment errors compound loss

Even if the raw material is cheap, the total cost per part climbs fast.

Deep Pocketing and Thin Wall Features

I’ve run into problems trying to machine deep cavities or narrow slots in 1095—even in the annealed state. The steel tends to work-harden, especially if chip evacuation isn’t perfect. It also lacks the ductility of alloy steels, making thin walls or flex features risky.

Avoid These Designs:

Pockets deeper than 3x tool diameter (unless with roughing strategies)
Internal radii smaller than 1mm
Thin fins or cantilevered arms

If you need those features, stainless tool steels (like A2 or 440C) will behave better, especially under finishing operations.

Summary Table: When to Avoid 1095 Steel in CNC Projects

Application or Condition	Avoid Using 1095 Steel?	Reason
High-precision mechanical part	✅ Yes	Poor post-HT dimensional stability
Hardened steel rework	✅ Yes	Tool damage and finish quality issues
Marine or outdoor exposure	✅ Yes	Rusts quickly without heavy protection
Mass production (100+ pcs)	✅ Yes	Not cost-effective in tooling and process control
Intricate internal features	⚠️ Possibly	Work-hardening, poor machinability in tight spots
Parts requiring post-HT CNC	✅ Yes	Not practical without grinding or EDM

My Hard-Learned Lessons

The worst mistake I ever made with 1095 was trying to use it for a batch of small lock components. I thought the material would give me the spring tension I needed after tempering. What I didn’t count on was the level of distortion during quench. I scrapped over 30% of the parts before switching to a pre-hardened spring steel with more stable performance.

So if your part demands precision, corrosion resistance, or bulk machining, you’re better off with a different alloy. 1095 steel has its place—but it’s not everywhere.

Machining Guidelines If You Do Choose 1095

If you’ve made it this far and still want to use 1095 steel for your CNC project—good. That means you’re probably working on a job where its strengths matter more than its shortcomings. And if you’ve got the right setup, tools, and expectations, you can absolutely get solid results. I’ve personally machined dozens of 1095 parts—from outdoor knives to spring tabs—and the difference between a clean cut and a ruined part usually comes down to five things: tooling, feeds and speeds, coolant, fixturing, and prep.

Let me walk you through what works.

Start with Annealed 1095 Only

You should only machine 1095 steel in its annealed condition. This is the softest state the steel can be in and makes it workable for CNC. If you’re unsure whether your stock is annealed, don’t take chances—verify with your supplier or do a quick file test. Hardened 1095 will feel “glassy” under a file, while annealed steel will bite.

Tool Selection for 1095 Steel

Use high-quality carbide tools. Don’t try to machine even annealed 1095 with HSS or cheap end mills—you’ll wear them out fast, especially if you’re slotting or running dry.

Tool Type	Recommended?	Notes
HSS End Mills	❌ No	Dulls quickly, causes chatter
Uncoated Carbide	⚠️ Limited	Works for light cuts; prone to chip welding without coolant
TiAlN-Coated Carbide	✅ Yes	Best performance and heat resistance
Corner-Radius Tools	✅ Yes	Reduces chipping on exit
Variable Flute	✅ Optional	Helps reduce vibration and tool harmonics

If you’re slotting or contouring, go for 2-flute or 3-flute carbide end mills with a corner radius. For finishing passes, I’ve had success using 4-flute TiAlN-coated tools.

Feed Rate and Spindle Speed Guidelines

Here’s a baseline chart you can adjust based on your machine rigidity and depth of cut:

Tool Diameter	Spindle Speed (RPM)	Feed Rate (IPM)	Axial DOC (in)	Radial DOC (WOC)	Notes
1/4″ (6.35mm)	4000–6000	12–20	0.02–0.04	0.025–0.05	Use coolant, ramp into cut
3/8″ (9.5mm)	3000–4500	18–25	0.04–0.06	0.05–0.1	Side-milling recommended
1/2″ (12.7mm)	2000–3500	20–30	0.06–0.08	0.075–0.15	Reduce DOC for long tools

These values are for annealed 1095 steel, using TiAlN-coated carbide tools, flood coolant, and rigid fixturing. Always start conservatively and adjust as you observe chip color and surface finish.

Use Plenty of Coolant

1095 steel tends to work-harden when it gets hot, which is why coolant is critical. If you don’t flush chips and cool the tool, you’ll start cutting work-hardened steel—which dulls tools instantly.

Flood coolant is best.
If you’re on a desktop machine, use a mist system or air blast + oil mist.
For longer cuts, pause between passes to cool down if needed.

I once machined a 10″ knife blank without coolant as a test. After the second slot pass, I noticed heavy discoloration and dull tool chatter—the steel had begun to harden mid-cut. I learned the hard way: never skip cooling on this stuff.

Workholding and Fixturing

1095 is tough, and if you’re doing aggressive roughing, it can push back against weak fixturing.

Tips for holding it steady:

Use low-profile clamps with rubber pads or parallels for even pressure.
Consider vacuum tables for thin sheets, especially with 2D profiling.
If the part is long or narrow, use tabs and breakouts for final finishing.

Also, deburr your blanks before fixturing. Sharp stock edges can sit unevenly on your table and throw off Z-zero by a hair—enough to ruin a finishing pass.

Finishing After Machining

After your CNC work is done, clean the surface thoroughly—1095 steel will oxidize from even light hand moisture. If you’re going to heat treat, you can sand or bead-blast the surface for more even oxidation or scale formation.

After heat treatment, be prepared for some minor warping, especially on long parts. Use a surface grinder or belt grinder to flatten if needed.

Suggested Workflow: CNC + 1095 Steel

Here’s the full process I use when making 1095 steel parts:

Buy annealed stock (check with supplier)
Rough and finish on CNC with carbide tooling
Deburr and sand for consistent edge quality
Heat treat using oil quench and oven tempering
Post-grind or polish if required for flatness or aesthetics
Apply protective coating (bluing, Cerakote, or mineral oil)

Alternative Steels Better Suited for CNC

Sometimes, no matter how much we like 1095 steel for its simplicity and affordability, it’s just not the right material for the job—especially when you’re CNC machining parts that require better corrosion resistance, tighter tolerances, or easier finishing. I’ve experimented with a range of other steels over the years, and I’ve learned where they shine (and where they don’t).

In this section, I’ll walk through several alternatives to 1095 steel and compare their properties, including machinability, post-treatment stability, rust resistance, and cost. Whether you’re working on high-end knives, industrial parts, or small mechanical components, one of these might just serve your needs better than 1095.

D2 Tool Steel

If you like the hardness and edge retention of 1095 but want something with better wear resistance and moderate corrosion resistance, D2 tool steel is worth considering. It’s an air-hardening, high-carbon, high-chromium tool steel.

Why D2 Might Be Better:

Hardness: Similar to 1095 after heat treatment (up to HRC 60–62)
Corrosion resistance: Better than 1095, though not fully stainless
Machinability: Slightly harder to cut, but predictable with carbide
Post-HT distortion: Minimal compared to water/oil quenched steels

Drawback:

Higher material and tooling costs
More sensitive to improper heat treatment

A2 Tool Steel

A2 is another air-hardening tool steel, widely used in the die and mold industry. It offers excellent dimensional stability during heat treatment, which is a massive plus for CNC parts that need post-HT machining.

Why A2 Might Be Better:

Dimensional stability: Excellent during heat treatment
Wear resistance: Comparable to D2
Machinability: Fair in annealed state; better than D2
Applications: Dies, punches, precision components

Drawback:

Not corrosion-resistant
May require post-grind for surface finish

440C Stainless Steel

If corrosion resistance is a priority—say, for kitchen tools or marine environments—440C stainless steel is one of the most popular choices. It’s a high-carbon, high-chromium stainless that can also reach HRC 58–60.

Why 440C Might Be Better:

Corrosion resistance: Far superior to 1095
Edge retention: Good after proper heat treatment
Machinability: Easier than D2, but still requires coolant

Drawback:

More expensive
Tendency to chip if not heat-treated evenly

CPM MagnaCut

For ultra-high-performance knives and precision tools, CPM MagnaCut is a newer powder metallurgy steel that offers exceptional balance: high hardness, excellent toughness, and truly stainless-level corrosion resistance.

Why MagnaCut Might Be Better:

All-around performance: Hardness, toughness, corrosion resistance
CNC machining: Great finish with coated carbide
Applications: High-end knives, surgical tools, demanding environments

Drawback:

Very expensive
Not necessary for low-budget or simple parts

4140 Alloy Steel

4140 is a low-alloy steel that’s widely used for structural components and machinery. It’s much easier to machine than 1095 and provides a good strength-to-cost ratio.

Why 4140 Might Be Better:

Machinability: Great in annealed state
Toughness: Very good for mechanical applications
Post-treatment behavior: Minimal distortion

Drawback:

Not hard enough for blade edges
Needs protective coating for corrosion

Comparative Table: 1095 vs Other Steels

Property / Steel Type	1095 Steel	D2 Tool Steel	A2 Tool Steel	440C Stainless	CPM MagnaCut	4140 Alloy Steel
Machinability (annealed)	⚠️ Medium	❌ Low	⚠️ Medium	✅ Good	✅ Good	✅ Excellent
Corrosion Resistance	❌ Poor	⚠️ Moderate	❌ Poor	✅ Very Good	✅ Excellent	❌ Poor
Heat Treat Stability	❌ Unstable	✅ Stable	✅ Very Stable	⚠️ Moderate	✅ Stable	✅ Stable
Max Hardness (HRC)	64	62	60	58–60	62–64	~50
Cost	✅ Low	⚠️ Moderate	⚠️ Moderate	❌ High	❌ Very High	✅ Low
Best Use Case	Knives, springs	Blades, punches	Dies, gauges	Wet environments	High-end knives	Machinery parts

Final Verdict: Is 1095 Right for Your CNC Project?

So—after all the pros, cons, comparisons, and war stories—how do you decide if 1095 steel is right for your CNC project?

I’ve worked with 1095 in both successful and frustrating builds. Some of my favorite knives and spring-loaded tools were made from it. But I’ve also wasted tooling and time pushing it into roles it wasn’t built for. This section is all about cutting through the guesswork and helping you make the call with confidence.

Quick Decision Checklist

Run through this list. If you answer “yes” to most of these, 1095 might be a great fit:

Question	Your Answer
Is your project low- to mid-volume (under 100 pcs)?
Will you machine the part in its annealed state?
Is your part’s geometry relatively simple and 2.5D?
Do you plan to heat treat after CNC machining?
Are you okay with oiling or coating the part for rust?
Are you using carbide tooling and coolant?
Can you tolerate slight distortion after heat treat?

If you answered “yes” to 5 or more, you’re in the green zone. 1095 steel will likely serve your needs well.

If you answered “no” to 3 or more, consider one of the alternatives we discussed in the previous section.

Best Fit CNC Projects for 1095 Steel

Here’s a fast recap of the project types that work best with 1095 steel:

Knife blanks
Bushcraft tools
Spring clips and brackets
DIY or maker-space projects
Parts with post-treatment polishing
Machining education or testing materials

And the types that don’t fit as well:

Medical or food-grade components
Tight-tolerance post-HT assemblies
Underwater or marine hardware
Mass-manufactured industrial parts
Complex, multi-axis geometries in hardened steel

1095 Steel: Personal Summary

In my experience, 1095 steel is like a workhorse that needs a bit of guidance. It’s not the flashiest or easiest to machine, but when used properly, it offers excellent hardness, clean cuts in the annealed state, and a satisfying final product.

Here’s what I always keep in mind before choosing 1095:

It’s not stainless—protect it or regret it.
Only machine it while it’s soft.
Let the heat treat do the hard work—CNC should be prep, not finish.
Use good tools, go slow, and cool aggressively.

I don’t reach for 1095 on every project, but when I do, it’s because I know exactly what I want from it—and I’m set up to get there.

Wrap-Up: Should You Use 1095 Steel?

Yes—if you’re prepared.

No—if you expect it to behave like stainless or tool steel.

When used correctly, 1095 steel can offer serious value, performance, and a sense of craftsmanship that’s hard to beat. It won’t hold your hand, but it will hold a wicked edge.

FAQ

1. What is 1095 steel made of?

1095 steel is a high-carbon plain steel composed mainly of iron and around 0.95% carbon, with small amounts of manganese. It contains no chromium, which is why it’s not stainless.

2. Can 1095 steel be CNC machined?

Yes—but only in its annealed (softened) state. Hardened 1095 is too hard for standard CNC machining and will quickly wear down tools.

3. Is 1095 steel stainless?

No. 1095 steel lacks chromium, which is what gives stainless steels their corrosion resistance. It will rust if not oiled, coated, or stored properly.

4. Should I machine 1095 steel before or after heat treatment?

Always machine it before heat treatment. After hardening, it becomes too hard for conventional CNC cutting and requires grinding or EDM.

5. What kind of tools should I use to CNC 1095 steel?

Use carbide end mills—preferably with a TiAlN coating. HSS tools wear too quickly. For best results, use low radial engagement, high coolant flow, and ramp into cuts.

6. What RPM and feed rate should I use for 1095 steel?

That depends on tool diameter and machine power. As a rough guide for a 1/4″ carbide tool: 4000–6000 RPM, 12–20 IPM, and 0.02″–0.04″ DOC with coolant.

7. Does 1095 steel require coolant during CNC machining?

Yes. 1095 work-hardens under heat. Using coolant—ideally flood coolant—helps avoid tool wear and maintains a clean finish.

8. Can I machine 1095 steel with a desktop CNC like a Shapeoko or Nomad?

You can, but only very light operations (like engraving or profiling thin sheet). Full-depth cuts or hardened stock will overwhelm hobby machines.

9. How hard does 1095 steel get after heat treatment?

Properly heat-treated 1095 can reach HRC 60–64, making it excellent for cutting edges but difficult to machine afterward.

10. Is 1095 steel good for knife making?

Absolutely. It’s a classic steel for knives thanks to its hardness and edge retention. Just be prepared for rust and post-heat-treatment cleanup.

11. What are the machining challenges of 1095 steel

Prone to work-hardening
Rusts easily
Hard on tooling if not prepped properly
Distortion during heat treatment

12. How do I prevent 1095 steel from rusting?

Immediately after machining or handling, wipe the part with light machine oil, WD-40, or mineral oil. Store in a dry place or apply a protective coating like Cerakote or bluing.

13. What thickness of 1095 steel is best for CNC projects?

For most projects like knife blanks or spring clips, 3/32″ to 3/16″ (2.4–4.8mm) is ideal. Thicker stock can be used, but needs more rigid fixturing and powerful machines.

14. Can I laser cut 1095 steel instead of CNC machining it?

Yes, laser cutting is common for 1095—especially for blade blanks. However, it causes a hardened edge (heat-affected zone) that may require post-processing.

15. Can 1095 steel be used in food-grade tools or outdoor parts?

Only if properly coated or maintained. It’s not corrosion-resistant, so it’s not ideal for food prep or wet environments unless protected.

16. Where can I buy annealed 1095 steel for CNC work?

Check knife-making suppliers (like Alpha Knife Supply), industrial metal vendors, or Amazon for annealed 1095 sheet or bar stock. Make sure it says “annealed” or “soft.”

17. Is 1095 steel worth the hassle in CNC work?

Yes—for certain jobs. If you need affordable, hard, edge-retaining steel, and you follow proper machining practices, 1095 can be a great option. Just don’t expect it to behave like aluminum or stainless.